It was Inspector Kurt Wallander, the fictional lead of the eponymous “Nordic noir” PBS/Masterpiece series, that interested me in Ystad in the first place. Coastal, windswept, with a rich history dating back a millennium, it seemed an appropriate setting not only for crime stories but also as a place to launch a 5-day road trip through Skane, Sweden’s southernmost province. I was determined to start with a spa. The venerable Ystad Saltsjöbad, with various packages and ad hoc services, was the perfect fit. The seaside location was a strong plus; to my mind, nothing is more restorative. An easy reach by car from Copenhagen’s airport. It was an inspired choice; I knew I would regret that my schedule allowed for only an overnight stay. Continue reading “Nordic Noir goes to the spa: Sweden’s Ystad Saltsjobad”